Wednesday, December 15, 2021

Destination Dharmasala

Essentially your holiday begins the moment you leave for destination. Thus spake Sri Sri. I was in Delhi on some work which extended beyond weekend and had Sat & Sunday at hand with no work. how bug of Dharmasala was inserted in mind which I was unable to remove no matter what. Million times in previous week, all possible scenarios assaulted to me. Should I go or not go!!. If I stayed back, I would have just rolled on bed or read a book. Nothing beyond. But going to a new place always made me little nervous & add to it my inertia & laziness. 


Dhauladhar ranges that over look Dharmasala is image to behold. We see them once we land on Kangra airport. It doesn't matter where you are in Dharmasala or McLeod, they follow you. Watching huge snowy peaks melts your mind into blissful silence.





Like always with no planning or preparation, one previous day, I, at last minute booked the flight tickets & hotel. Let the consequences go to hell...year is ending, lemme do something scary.




Paragliding experience: While driving to Norbulingka Institute, I was stopped by guy who asked if I like trying Paragliding. As it was back of my mind, I took the dive. While I expected sheer thrills & fear, it was at best, like swinging in joola/swing. Pilot at one point hilariously prodding me to scream.







I was kinda obsessed with Tibetan Buddhism mostly through stories I read as teen than, Exotica mystical aura surrounded them which attracted . I devoted Fables of yogic meditation masters of Tibetan Buddhism like Milerepa, Nagarjuna, Naropa, Tilopa etc...books on Beyul Demoshong, lobsang rampa who wrote series of books.


This is where HH Dalai lama lives. Heavily secured with barb & concertina wire. Ofcourse he is hot target to Chinese communists. Around his place, we find several devotees doing circumbulations repeating mantras over rosary as mark of respect , devotion& cleansing their soul.





Tibetan Buddhism is one of my favorite themes. Btw I ve multiple favorites. So when I found window of opportunity to visit McLeod gunj, Himachal, I pounced without plan or preparation.Well, I couldn't visit many of monasteries due to covid lockdown. I wanted to see Gyuoto tantric Monastery or Tibetan library where they tried to preserve their knowledge.





McLeod gunj is seat of Govt-in-Exile for HH Dalai Lama .When China invaded Tibet, his spiritual ruler Dalai Lama escaped 2 India (Kundan & 7 years in Tibet r beautiful movies on thus subject) . When entire world didn't dare to offer refugee to Him, it was India which gave him & his 80,000 followers, land 2 live & refugee status. I visited few settlements in Karnataka, Tamilnadu, Delhi but nothing beats McLeod. China no wonder finds Tibetans in India a thorn but Courage high integrity & moral responsibility shown by then PM Nehru was admirable.


Highest Cricket stadium in elevation in India 


Mountains: Feast to eyes


Behind the walls stays HH Dalai lama.


Tibetan flag of non-existant independent Nation. Tibetans in their home country,Tibet which now is under rule of China dare not to worship Dalai lama. His picture is prohibited. Tibetan flag invites punishment under autocratic China. However in McLeod gunj, they are free to do whatever they want. Everywhere in every shop & house they carry photo of Dalai Lama. They have their own Govt-in-Exile which deliberates & discusses their future. Tibetans still hope to return one day back to their homeland which now I wonder if it's even possible.



Maroon monks all around. HH Dalai lama has established his Govt in exile here. Tibetan refugees built entire city, culture from scratch. Schools, hospitals, culture, everything to preserve what they left behind in Tibet.


Melt in magnificence of mountains. The silence, gentle chilly wind, ..totally blissful 



Totally zen


Norbulingka Institute. 


.Tibetan breakfast👆🏼Tibetan bread, Tsampa, potato katsa & butter tea. 
Host tried to convince me to to try other stuff as many may not like it or atleast indianize it by making it sweet or spicy. I was like, what? Bring it on. This is what pple like Milerapa to Naropa to Tilopa to Dalai lama must ve eaten.I ve been reading on them for 20 years in various Tibetan Buddhist books. Now finally got chance to eat. Bring it on. Moreover I didn't travel all the way to eat dosa or parotas.Well, it was yummy but also very heavy.Tsampa is very good for hikers & diabetic. Simple barley


Are you Tourist or Traveller or Pilgrim or Explorer. Well, I don't know the difference either. But I think Place &, Person mind makes the difference. 


In memory of Tibetan martyrs who have fallen to Chinese tyranny 


I had only 3 points in agenda which I decided while on flight. Watch Dhauladhar ranges (melt into its magnificence). 2. Eat local cuisine in monasteries 3. Meet this person.This man who is 99 yrs, a polymath, mountaineer, civil servant, personal friend of Nehru & Dalai lama, can speak multiple languages, authored many books, conducted 1st elections in Spiti valley after trekking for 57 days in snowy mountains, & worked lifelong for cause of tibetans. What a intense life he lived!! Meeting him certainly epoch moment. How do I know him? He is my friends grandfather.


My hotel room


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